
By Marc Wegerif
The sun was setting as we arrived at the MST (Landless Rural Workers Movement – http://www.mstbrazil.org/) settlement of Itapeva, Brazil. The five of us stretched as we climbed out of the small Fiat after six hours on the road from Sao Paulo. I had been lucky to sit in the front passenger seat alongside our driver while Yara, a student who was our translator, was squashed between Eric, the Oxfam (http://www.oxfam.org)economic/ Justice Campaign Manager from West Africa, and Baha, a researcher with the land rights organization HakiArdhi (http://www.hakiardhi.org/) in Tanzania. We were here to find out more about the MST.
Earlier that day we had been in the MST office in Sao Paulo. The office in a nondescript house in a mostly residential neighborhood had been bought with the proceeds from a photo exhibition of MST pictures taken by a well known photographer. The lack of any signs of MST on or outside the house indicated the threat that MST remains under. Inside the house were neat offices with walls and shelves filled with MST posters and publications as well as gifts from comrades in other parts of the country and the world. We left a Tingatinga (http://www.tingatinga.org/index.html) painting from Tanzania to add more color to the collection.
Joachim who worked on International relations gave us an overview of the history of Brazil that led to the unequal land relations of today and the land occupations of the late 70s that were the precursor to the formation of MST in 1984. He explained the MST’s current main activities, successes, challenges and key principles: mass organization; independence from political or union organizations; no ‘Presidents’ or figure heads, rather collective organization built from the ground up; self criticism; permanent study; and work.
Now we were going to see for ourselves a little bit of the reality of life in the MST. We were warmly welcomed into the small office of the Itapeva settlement and met Adalberto, known in the area as ‘Bell’, who was to be our guide. As well as being the hub for the administration of the settlement the office also provided other community services and as we walked in we found a group of youth there surfing the internet. After eating Bell took us for a short drive around part of the settlement, his large farmer’s hands on the wheel of the small car had clearly seen many years of hard work.
A few kilometers away we found Agrivilla 1, also known as Bairro (Neighborhood) 13th May 1984, the date of the first occupation. Along the road were signs put up by the government advertising their support for the settlement, graffiti covered these as the MST resented the self promotion of the government and claimed the success of the settlement as theirs. The state’s first response had been evictions and they only later provided support when forced to. The MST had their own signs in each settlement noting the date of the ‘conquest’ of the land. Apart from the contested signs it was a neat village with rows of houses along a main road and down some side streets accommodating the hundred and seven families that lived there. This is also where the dairy operation, including cheese making, and the warehouses of the marketing and supply cooperative (COAPRI) that Bell runs is located.



The students, many of them young people, but also some older activists are going to graduate in the next month and then go to their settlements or to assist in other settlements. The training has focused on organic and ecologically sustainable agricultural practices that the MST promotes. They will be a key resource in the growth of the productive base that is so important to the lives of MST members and the life and dynamism of the movement itself.
After breakfast Bell squeezed his large frame into a small Volkswagen belonging to the cooperative and we set off driving through another part of the settlement. On the way we found the milk truck from the cooperative collecting milk from the containers left along the road by the different farmers. Bell explained that not all of the residents of the MST settlements are members of the cooperative, but some farmers from outside the settlement have joined the cooperative to benefit from its services.
In another village we found the one production cooperative (COPAVA) in the settlement. 30 families pooled their land and their agrarian reform grants to set up collective production, buying larger equipment and also setting up processing and storage facilities. The majority of families in the new settlement decided to farm their own land individually.
Gamil, who is a member of the Regional Directorship of MST as well as COPAVA, shared his experiences of the land occupations, evictions and life on the side of the road going back to the 1980s. “In the end it was worth it, I had been a tenant on someone else’s land and had nowhere else to go” he stated and also explained the importance of the camps and occupations as a place of learning and political formation. Gamil was less positive about the attitude of people today who “don’t have the same spirit of struggle”, some of this due to the political changes, which make people wait for the government to deliver and also the comfort of their lives now in the settlements.
Zezezinho, a squat muscular man, showed us around the farm that the cooperative owns. They grow wheat, rice, beans, maize and soy. They also produce and sell bread, vegetables, milk, pork and cachaça (a Brazilian cane spirit). We passed a large combine harvester in the yard and a building under construction where the cachaça is brewed, but with the extension will also become a refinery for producing their own ethanol for fueling their vehicles. We passed the animal stables and Zezezinho pointed out the boundaries of the farm including a small piece of forest on the other side of the valley that they are preserving as a place to walk and where the children like to play. At the other end of the property a row of small, but neat houses are almost completed. These are being built by the cooperative for their children, the next generation who have grown up in the settlement and are now young adults with their own families. They also have an herb garden where with over 90 species of herbs, some grown for medicinal use. Next to this they are planting a variety of indigenous trees and the all important football field as well as a preschool. At the end of the tour we stopped at the farm shop and some of us tried the cachaça, poured from a barrel on the shop counter.

We were close to the occupation, I got out to open a gate and we went down a narrow farm track, then over the next hill we could see the black plastic of the typical MST camp and the MST flags on tall poles marking the beginning of their area. The shacks of the settlement were spread alongside the farm track providing homes for 42 families that are staking their claim to this land with their occupation, they have also taken other actions such as occupying the office of INCRA (the National Institute for Colonization [Settlement] and Agrarian Reform) for four days. MST have found out that this land, belonging to a University is not fulfilling its ‘social function’ as prescribed in the Brazilian constitution. The people using the land have got it corruptly and some of the land is not fully used. The families are all landless and are using this constitutional space to demand that the state allocate the land officially to them so that they can be secure there, improve their houses and invest in production. As Joachim had told us in Sao Paulo “our struggle is that the law will be implemented, fully accomplished”. These families have been organizing for years and occupied other land before, but they were evicted. Some families gave up and left, the less committed being weeded out through the hard life on the side of the road and in the camps, others like Nilsa have continued. They now have support from the local priest, the mayor and some of the deputies in the regional government and are hopeful they will soon be secured on the land.
Nilsa who is living in the camp with her husband and their five children is one of the coordinators. She showed me the cramped shack where her family sleeps and the collective kitchen that a different “nucleus group” takes responsibility for each day. The store room with its sacks of rice and beans and large containers of oil, has food mostly provided by settlements like the ones at Itapevo, but there are no luxury items. The water is collected from a natural spring a few hundred metres from the main camp.

Nilsa came from the north of Brazil where she lived in the slums and could not find work. Her brother who is part of the Itapevo settlement encouraged here to come and join the occupation. Despite the rough living conditions she is already extremely happy for her children and beams with pride as she watches them playing on the grass. The children are also now enrolled in school and are collected by a school bus in the morning. “It is much safer and healthier here. There is fresh air and space. There was so much drugs and violence where we lived before” Nilsa explained.



Oxfam Economic Justice Campaign Coordinator in Horn East and Central Africa
-Great article on Marc's visit to the MST. I wonder if he has anything to say on the lessons African land rights movements could learn from the MST experience. In a profoundly sad way we seem to be so far behind this social movement in our efforts to achieve land rights and liberation in so many states in Africa.